
Paul did the first installment of our travelogue
in photos; I will
attempt to fill in and follow up on the next phase of our trip.
We (Paul, Urban, Maria and I) arrived in Paris about 1:30 pm on Tuesday
afternoon (May 8th); got to the hotel about 3:30. The friends we were
supposed to meet were out so the 4 of us went in search of something to eat.
At Maria’s suggestion, we chose a neighborhood brasserie and had
soup/sandwiches… which tasted so good. After that we just walked around
the area which happened to be one of the more exclusive in Paris. Beautiful
homes, nice little restaurants, nannies with their charges in the parks.
Within a couple hours, we met up with Smiley and Dan and continued walking
to Notre Dame and nearby areas of interest. We finished with hot chocolate
at a restaurant near the hotel; a nice touch to a very busy, very long day.
We all slept very well that night (9-10 hours) and were ready to get on
with the business of seeing Paris. A friend of Smiley and Dan’s; David;
from the Dijon region of France, joined us for the
day. Once again, we walked…and walked…and walked. The weather was warm and
sunny; we were so fortunate. As we were making our way through a shopping district, Maria
remembered that a member of the family with whom she lived when she attended
school in France 10 years ago worked in a certain store we had just passed.
She went in to see if
she was still there and she was! So, Maria arranged to have lunch with her
while the rest of us went ahead and did more sightseeing. We walked along
the river to the Louvre. Because we were so pressed for time, we did not go
in. However, Smiley gave us an informative little history
lesson as we stood in the courtyard. We continued walking along the Seine,
recognizing many buildings along the way.
The six of us had lunch at Deux Magots on the Boulevard St.-Germain,
a restaurant that was featured in May’s issue of Bon Appetit. The
food was excellent and the location great for people-watching. We then
walked to Napoleon’s tomb where Maria was waiting for us. Some had already
been to that exhibit / museum so waited outside in the gardens while the
others went to check it out. The weather was spectacular and we thoroughly
enjoyed sitting by the fountains.
From there, we walked to the Eiffel Tower. Obviously, we enjoyed great
views from the top. It was a fun, ‘touristy’ thing to do. While there,
we think we were in close proximity to Matt Lauer who was in town
that day doing his "Where in the World is Matt Lauer" series. (He
did end up being shown at the Eiffel Tower). We saw a stretch
limo parked next to a truck [on which movie cameras were pictured] in a
location which had a great view of the Eiffel Tower. Who knows?
We then took a subway (it was after 7:00 pm by then) back to the hotel
where we changed for dinner. Once again, we headed off on foot in search of
a fondue restaurant that Maria and Smiley had discovered 10 years ago. What
a delightful place that was. Dinner took a couple hours and was wonderful.
Maria, Urban, Paul and I opted to walk back to the hotel; the others decided
to take the subway. We thought it was going to be a relatively short walk
but we got momentarily ‘confused’ and ended up walking quite a ways
before we finally got back around 1:00 am. It was nice being out and we felt
somewhat virtuous that we at least attempted to walk off some of the
calories from dinner!
The next morning, the same quartet made its way to the shop where
Maria’s friend worked. We all made our selections from wonderful silk
ties, scarves and leather belts with some difficulty as
there was so much from which to choose. On the way back to the hotel, we
discovered a wonderful chocolaterie where we purchased some gorgeous
pastries. Then it was off to the train station. Maria, Dan and Smiley headed
to the Cognac region while Urban, Paul and I boarded a high speed train to
Amsterdam.
We were in a compartment that seated 8 which meant it was difficult not
to overhear other conversations. As it turned out, all but one of the others
spoke English. One man was from Ghana, in Europe on business. One couple was
from Utah, had been in Europe almost a month and were avid bike riders. So
was the woman from Amsterdam. Their conversations about what they’d been
doing were quite entertaining and the trip went quickly. An older couple got
on about mid-way through the trip and what a pair they were. He had been 18
during World War II and had come back to the region in which he had fought.
Almost immediately, we fell in love with Amsterdam! The weather was
unseasonably warm and everybody was happy after months of gray and gloom.
After a very crowded tram ride to our hotel, we were ready for dinner. As
Paul mentioned before, at the recommendation of a very helpful hotel
employee, we ate at a Thai restaurant in a non-touristy neighborhood.
Excellent food.
The next morning is when we discovered the internet
cafe and availed
ourselves of the service each of the following mornings. We’d get up early
and walk to the main location, which took 20-30 minutes, depending on what
we saw along the way. The city definitely caters to late-night revelers;
nothing opens before 9:00 (at the absolute earliest). Other than Paul,
myself, the street cleaners, and a few other jet-lagged tourists, we rarely
saw anyone that time of day; it was so quiet and peaceful. We usually walked
along the canals which were flanked by 17th century row houses.
At some point, owners were assessed by the width of their homes.
Consequently, most of the homes (at least in this area) were very narrow. I
had an excellent guide book that described in detail the buildings along the
canals, along with a brief history of some. Of particular interest were the
leaning buildings. One wonders why they are still standing after all these
years.
I was amazed at the surprisingly orderly manner in which bicycle riders,
pedestrians, and vehicles navigate the busy streets. There is no
horn-honking, ‘flipping off’ or screaming obscenities as everyone
manages to maneuver their way around the city. EVERYONE rides bikes. And
most of the bikes look like rusted out clunkers…but they work and get
people to where they need to be.
Paul and I did witness one mishap. A taxi had stopped to let out its
passengers; the person in the front seat opened her door about the same time
a cyclist was passing (on the right side, no less). The cyclist rammed into
the door and ended up on the street. We didn’t stick around for the
fireworks but a short time later, saw the biker going on his way. It was our
understanding that cyclists always have the right-of-way but we weren’t
sure but what he shouldn’t have been where he was in this particular
incident.
We would get back to the hotel in time for the continental breakfast
(available at 8:30) and then start off again on foot. We did a little
shopping at a London-based department store the first day, when we also
stumbled across LUSH,
a favorite shop of Paul's. That alone made the trip
for him!
We sat down on the steps of the palace in the main square (The Dam) to
have a bit of lunch the first day. I had one of the many flashbacks that
took me back to when I was there with the music group…a hundred years ago
when I was 18. We had performed a concert in that square! Ahh, the memories.
There was a tram that made a circle around the main section of Amsterdam
which we took just to get a feel for the city that first morning. Then we
had lunch at the Esprit Café which Paul had read about in one of the guide
books. It lived up to its recommendation.
After lunch, Urban decided it was nap time…Paul and I continued
exploring. We found a great little shop; both of us made purchases. The
young couple who owned the store talked with us at length about any number
of things. Mainly the weather…they were thrilled that the sun was shining!
That evening we ate at another ‘local’ restaurant; this time our
choice was Italian. We were able to sit outdoors this time and enjoyed the
view. After being able to ascertain what most things were on the French
menus, we had been presented with an Italian-only menu and didn’t have a
clue for much of it. Another adventure! I had artichoke stuffed
ravioli…once we learned what the word for ‘artichoke’ meant.
The next morning (after our early-morning walk and breakfast at the
hotel), we set off on a coach/bus tour (recommended by brother Mark) to
flower fields south of Amsterdam. Two stops were included, the first of
which was mainly for people to buy bulbs to have shipped to the States later
in the summer. The next was of an absolutely gorgeous display of flower beds
among a huge expanse of beautifully manicured lawns. We took many pictures
as there were unlimited possibilities for gorgeous photo-ops.
After returning to Amsterdam, we found a place called the ‘Soup
Kitchen’ for lunch. Again, a great opportunity for people watching while
eating wonderful food.
Next, we headed to the Anne Frank
house. Need I say that it was a
sobering experience. One wonders how that many people were able to live in
that small of a space for that long of a time. We were all dismayed to see
the photo of Anne Frank’s statue on which a swastika had been
spray-painted. The neo-Nazi movement obviously denies that the Holocaust
ever happened; this was their response.
We then did a little more shopping; Paul & I headed back to the hotel
and sat on the ‘deck’ at the lower level of the hotel along the
canal…enjoying the sunshine and the scenery. I just had to purchase a beer
from the hotel vending machine…just because I could. Heineken right next
to the bottled water and for the same price. I love it!
That evening we had dinner at an Indonesian restaurant that had come
highly recommended. We discovered why; it was incredible. We ordered what
was referred to as the ‘rice platter’. Along with rice, about 12 dishes
were brought to the table; chicken and beef on skewers, vegetables, more
meat on platters, a mixture of coconut and peanuts, etc. We all ate too
much…and still there was so much left.
The next day we did the Internet drill again. After purchasing some
gorgeous fresh fruit, we took it back to supplement our continental
breakfast. Then the three of us went on a self-guided tour of the canal
streets. Discovered a real coffee place (not to be confused with the
cannabis-selling coffeehouses) and sat outside to enjoy our purchases and
lament the fact that we had to leave Amsterdam in a few hours. On our way
back to the hotel, we ended up in a red light district. Not THE red light
district…but the same things were going on. What a surprise that was on a
Sunday morning; seeing rather scantily-clad women displaying their
attributes in the windows.
Just after noon on Sunday, we took the high speed train back to Paris,
this time sitting in first class. After arriving at the main train station,
we took yet another train to the airport area where our hotel was located.
Maria was waiting in line at the check-in desk; timing couldn’t have been
better. However, we were at the wrong hotel L
. There just happened to be several of the same name. (Not too confusing.)
Finally we got to the right place and went to have dinner. It was fun to be
together again and catch up on what we’d all been doing.
The next day, after some confusion, we got on the right bus to the
airport. We walked into the terminal and, even if it wasn’t total chaos,
it definitely was crazy. Once again, we were grateful for the fact that
Maria was fluent in French and that Urban works for Continental! In the
midst of all the confusion, Paul came up with one of the best quotes of the
trip when he said, "I should be in charge of France!"
We got on the flight with no problem; the gate employee even arranged it
so we could all sit together closer to the front of the plane, which was
greatly appreciated. The flight attendants had senses of humor, which made
the flight that much more enjoyable. We had lots to eat…lots of movies
from which to choose (including "Chocolat", "Finding
Forrester", "Miss Congeniality")…and no crabby people or
crying children sitting anywhere near us. The flight arrived in Houston in
just over 9 hours; we cleared customs; said our good-byes and went to our
respective gates. It was a whirlwind trip but I don’t doubt that we’d
all go back in a heartbeat. We didn’t even begin to scratch the surface of
all that was available. (I think at least one return trip is in order!)